The low-speed chase

When I originally heard this idea at a Bombay comedy show (article by a friend on CNN here), I thought it was an exaggeration.


Setting:
Crowded Bombay Street

Key players:
1) Traffic cop with 'lati' (a baton) --no vehicle, no weapon
2) Rule-breaking driver

Goal:
Cop must apprehend rule-breaking driver

Path:
He's going to run over there and threaten with a baton? What?


If a driver tries to evade the police, they are literally in a low-speed chase after the driver on-foot in Bombay traffic. I didn't believe it until I actually had the good fortune of witnessing such an incident recently. It's amazing to see the Bombay traffic police at work.

Apparently, somehow the anarchy is aiding and abetting the police. Keep-up the "good work" guys!

Football-- Yes, the "American" kind

Few sports are more despised by the Mumbai intelligentsia than "American Fooball." Frequent complaints:

1) Why is it called "football"--they barely even use their feet
2) Why are there so many rules?
3) This is a contact sport? Have you seen rugby?

All of these valid complaints and I can think of an equal number of idiocyncracies in Soccer or Cricket but it hasn't stopped me from enjoying the IPL or the World Cup.

Not sure if it's the unshakable Anglophilia or a new-found Amerophobia, but NFL matches are some of the hardest games to find India:

* Only TV source is some Army network broadcast to the US embassy (no bars, not even a satellite connection will help)
* Internet methods of watching a live game (NFL subscription or Slingbox) are underwhelming given the bandwidth limitations here

It's bad enough that at a 4:15PM kickoff is a 1:45AM kickoff in Bombay. India, why are you conspiring to make the Packers even more difficult to watch?

If anyone knows any practical solutions, please help. Thank you!

Bombay Street Meat: Mohammed Ali Road

I'm about reach actualization as a repat: now that I've already started drinking local--albeit UV filtered--water and last weekend, I decided to try street food in Mumbai.

Where: Mohammed Ali Road (heart of old, Muslim Bombay)
When: Saturday night during Ramadan (or more beautifully rendered, Ramzan, in Urdu)
Wtf: See image below

The fasts of Ramzan days lead to the glorious feasts of the eve. M. Ali Road--'the street that never sleeps'--is particularly alive and buzzing on Ramzan nights. While I often feel like a tourist in Bombay, it was clear today even my resident Mumbaiker friends were feeling touristy in this part of town. To paraphrase one of them during our meal, "even your driver wouldn't eat what you're eating right now." Some highlights from the trip:

1) Absurd cheapness of food available
- Entire meal with meat was possible for under 50 cents (Rs 20)
- One exception, however, was being upsold on some 'Bombay pheasant' which cost $6

2) Lesson in goat anatomy through consumption of following:
- Brain
- Kidney
- Liver
- Bone marrow

3) Discovery of Indian tissues

Me: Do you have a tissue or napkin?
Vendor: I have Indian tissue
Me: What?
[Vendor hands me a piece of old newspaper]

Sadly, however, the food was less than amazing despite the amount of dirt and grease involved. Perhaps we went to the wrong places. Never fear, given that I have survived this trip in one piece, I'm definitely willing to give M. Ali Road another shot!

Breaking the Mold: 'One Chalta Hai' at a Time

After two weeks of traveling abroad, I unknowingly arrived in a war zone at my Mumbai apartment: It's Man vs Mold. Apparently, Sri out of town + maid sick + Mumbai monsoon = apt is prime breeding ground for fungus.

The most shocking aspect of the affair is what transpired when I shared the news with people. Many of my Mumbai veteran friends just shrugged it off. It happens in all our houses at some point or other most monsoons; just have you maid clean better.

Well, I'm not going to be another casualty to Mumbai's anything goes, 'Chalta hai' attitude. Here is one man's plan for victory post-ambush:

Step 1- Focus on defense and limiting further damage
* Strip all exposed fabric in the apartment and have it sent for burning
* Send all other fabric for dry cleaning
* Open all blinds, windows, doors
* Run all fans, lights, A/C's 24/7

Step 2- Prepare for Offensive Action
* Investigate best type of weaponry to attack enemy at hand: Damprid is aparently the winner
* Go to Amarsons/Premsons and buy the entire suite of products manufactured by Damprid (literally)




Step 3- Fight the good fight and make sacrifices
* Wipe down all surfaces and apply mold prevention chemicals (ok, got the maid to do this)
* Stop sleeping (well it's difficult to sleep with all lights on and windows open)


Note: As always, some/most/all parts of this post may have been altered/exaggerated for dramatic effect

Restaurant Week India & Koh

After two weeks of gorging on amazing preparations in Los Angeles and New York, I've heard the best news this morning:

The event starts next week (Sept 6-12). A friend of mine (Mangal Dalal) along with a few other people has accomplished somewhat of a foodie coup by

1) Herding notoriously unherdable Indian entrepreneurs
2) Convincing Indian luxury places to sell things for the cheap-cheap
3) Picking just a great starting list which includes:
- Koh (Ian Kittichai of New York)
- San Qi (Great but normally overpriced Pan-Asian Resto at the Four Seasons)
- Tote (Same owners as Indigo but more exciting menu)

Reservations can be made through the website and the prix-fixe is only Rs 1000 (~$20).


Separately, I'm very excited that Ian Kittichai's Koh snuck into Mumbai during my hiatus (see below). Brunch this Sunday at New York's Kittichai--the once-hip but now largely-overlooked restaurant--pleasantly surprised me. Granted, it's not the best traditional Thai in New York (go to Sripraphai or Land Thai for that), but it's always more enjoyable to try innovative Thai!